Helles, delicate and refined, are a brewer’s challenge: how to make a vivid beer of elegance with the simplest of tools? In turning the dials down across the board, we find whispered flavours normally too hushed to be heard. Each quiet voice is a filament, both fine and bright, and fleeting, as if before you can put a finger on, it rises away. What’s left are ripples in the water: a pinch of spice, the brisk warmth of a fresh loaf, and a faint memory of smoke, like embers still glowing in the morning, their smell carried on the wind.